On a recent visit to Launceston, Andrew and Neil, foodies at heart, wanted to explore the region’s wine route. Alicia and I, with many hikes shared together, wanted to go further afield for a short day walk at the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. We were only in Launceston for less than a week so we decided to go our separate ways. My son decided that he would go with the foodies while my daughter volunteered to join her womenfolk on a mini-hike around the Dove Lake Circuit. This is a quick recount of the girls’ day out.
The drive from Launceston to the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre took two hours of driving bliss. We passed towns like Promised Land and Nowhere Else while listening to traffic reports proudly reporting “no traffic” and weather forecasts announcing clear blue skies and pleasant twenty-degree temperatures throughout the week. It was no wonder Alicia and I spent nights throughout our Tasmanian holiday, texting each other links to houses for sale and dreaming of endless trails to explore. No doubt like millions of mainlanders who have holidayed in Tasmania before us.
We arrived at an almost full Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair carpark where Alicia and I decided to catch a shuttle to the start of the walk instead of driving in. This ended up being a good decision because the roads into the park were narrow gravel roads more suited to four-wheel drives. We also got some helpful tips from the ranger like it’s best to walk the track in a clockwise direction for better photos of the Cradle Mountain saddle and that the quickest way to finish the Dove Lake Circuit was to get off the shuttle, walk to Glacier Rock, take a selfie, then get back on the shuttle.
The start of the track was very busy and made me suspect that the ranger’s whole spiel about walking clockwise on the track was aimed more at facilitating the traffic among the herds of tourists, than for the supposed Cradle Mountain photo opportunities. When we got to Glacier Rock, a giant quartzite boulder scratched by ancient glacier debris, I urged my daughter to avoid the people taking selfies on the unfenced edge by crouching low near the edge of the rock that was closest to the footpath. The crowd disappeared when we continued our walk, away from Glacier Rock. The ranger’s words on the quickest way to finish the walk rang true.
The walk was straightforward and no map was required. Looking out from the higher sections of the track, we could see faint trails leading to the water’s edge, a few of which we followed. When we reached the sandy pebbly shores, small waves of icy cold glacial water were a most welcome respite for our weary toes.
Parts of the track housed cool temperate rainforest vegetation of ancient towering myrtle-beech trees carpeted in moss and lichen like the ground they stood in. Native flowers, trees, and grasses, common in the mainland, sprinkled the scrub and lake shores. We walked to the sounds of rustling leaves , water gently slapping rocks, conversations carried in the wind, and cawing of what appeared to be forest ravens. Such a peaceful setting made it easier to absorb the finer details of our surroundings.
The track was made of loose gravel, meandering boardwalk, and some sections were paved in stone. We exchanged fleeting greetings with other hikers, some parents, the most dedicated of which was a father with a front carrier with a baby and a back carrier loaded with a toddler. I uttered a silent thanks to the universe when my daughter only asked to be carried once. Down hill. Towards the end of the walk.
Towards the end of our walk, my daughter kept looking up at the sky and walking faster. I asked her what was bothering her. She confessed that she was worried it might get dark soon and that the shuttle might leave us. I showed her my watch and explained the last shuttle leaves at 7.00 pm and the ranger will wait for us, having logged our trip intentions in the guest book before the start of the walk.
In the end, we finished the walk in four hours with plenty of daylight left for the drive back to Launceston. My daughter said the best part of the trip was spending time with her aunt and chomping on our stash of chocolate bars. No doubt, Alicia, my daughter, and I will continue sharing outdoor adventures together for many many years to come. Someday perhaps exploring the Pacific Coast Trail, the Appalachian Trail, or the Camino together. But I’m getting ahead of myself. For now, one step at a time close to home, is good walking.
6 kilometers, circuit