Lighthouse Walk, Bruny Island

Bruny Island Lighthouse

Fresh from our two-hour walk at the Grass Point Trail, still full from our 11 am cafe brunch, and with four hours to spare before our much coveted pub dinner booking at Bruny Island Hotel, Andrew and I decided to drive to the Southern end of Bruny Island to visit the lighthouse. Past endless horizons of cloudy sky and eucalyptus-scented tree-filled green, Andrew focused on getting our family safely through narrow dirt roads as I drifted in and out of my afternoon nap like our kids on the back seat.  

On the road to South Briny Island to visit Bruny Island Lighthouse.
We lost radio reception long before we hit this part of the road.

When we arrived at the main entrance to the lighthouse, Andrew, not one for naps, stepped out to brave the gusts of wind blowing in from the Tasman Sea to explore.  With a quick “I can see the lighthouse from my window, have fun,” I moved to the driver’s seat to resume my nap with the kids, occasionally nudged back to consciousness by conversations carried by the wind into our half open car windows.  Twenty minutes later, with Andrew content with his share of alone time and myself refreshed and resuming the driving duties, we slowly drove away from the lighthouse. 200 metres later, our son woke up, filling the car with guttural screaming to match Sepultura, one line repeated over and over: “I want lighthooooooouuussseeeee!!!!!”.

Bruny Island Lighthouse, South Bruny Island
Faced with the prospect of 17 kilometres of screaming with limited places to stop, I surrendered and drove back to the lighthouse. Carpe diem. We might as well walk.

From the bottom car park white gates, we walked towards an old cottage housing a small museum. Looking out one of the windows, I found myself romanticizing the solitude unperturbed by earlier sign reading, “A welcome and a Warning”.  The lighthouse is claimed to be the oldest existing tower under Australian Commonwealth Control. Completed with convict labour and lit by whale lamps in 1838, these days the lighthouse is decommissioned, replaced by a solar-powered automatic light located on a hill east of the lighthouse.

South Bruny Island, Tasmania
"The story of lighthouses invariably begins with shipwrecks." The loss of 134 lives on George III in 1835 and the earlier Actaeon shipwreck were the impetus for the lighthouse being built.
The view from the Bruny Island Lighthouse Museum, South Bruny Island, Tasmania.
"Imagine living in a remote location, often cold and wet weather, cooped up with two other families and all under rule of an ex-naval man that one may or may not get on with." Reading through some lightkeeper logs.
Bruny Island Lighthouse Museum, South Bruny Island, Tasmania
"Despite their long hours on duty, Tasmanian lightkeepers were poorly paid and many toiled for years without leave." Browsing through equipment while pondering which union, if any, would have covered lighthouse keepers.

After the small museum, we headed towards the wire gates to follow the concrete steps leading to the lighthouse.   My daughter led the way as Andrew and I took turns piggybacking the reason why we got ourselves on this impromptu walk in the first place. 

Bruny Island Lighthouse, South Bruny Island, Tasmania
Counting her steps as she went, "35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 30, 31, 32, 33..."

As we arrived at the lighthouse, we met the keeper who just finished the last tour and was locking up for the day.  “Don’t blow away kids,” he said as he made his way down the hill. Taking the keeper’s words literally, my son tightened his grip on my hands.  Despite much squinting, because I left our binoculars back in the car and because of the cloud cover, it was hard to discern Pedra Branca and Eddystone Rock. These rocks are said to be white-tipped due to generations of pelagic birds’ droppings. 

Bruny Island Lighthouse, South Bruny Island, Tasmania.
Holding on to each other so they don't get blown away.
Bruny Island Lighthouse, South Bruny Island, Tasmania
"Have you ever...ever felt like this?"
Bruny Island Lighthouse, South Bruny Island, Tasmania.
"Hold on to my head. No! No! Stop! Take your hands off my eyes! Don't let go! Hang on! Ok Andrew we're ready." Picture perfect finish.
Tasman Sea from the Bruny Island Lighthouse, South Bruny Island, Tasmania.
Thank you, Mr 3. We would have missed out on this experience if we ignored your epic tantrum.

Some say “Your life is a product of your choices.” By making a choice to turn around, our family found three more tracks to explore for another day: to the white sands of Jerry Beach, to pristine and secluded beaches of Cloudy and Mabel Bays, and to the dolerite cliffs of Quiet Bay. Three more of the thousands of reasons why our family will continue to come back to Tasmania over the years to come. 




1 kilometre return


Your thoughts